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The land of Hamburgers

It’s raining again in Potsdam, which means it’s time to for some reminiscing, holiday-sun-fun style.

So let’s rewind a month back, to a magical time when the sun was high in the sky, Andy’s folks were visiting, and we all headed Nor-west to Hamburg.

I rode in on the ICE train late Thursday evening, and began my exploration with ‘the Wizza Gang’ (who had been in Hamburg since Wednesday) the next morning.

Actually, the Folks decided to head up to Luebeck- the famous home of the Marzipan, while Andy and I got to know the city with another Walking tour.

Let’s take a look ’round Hamburg shall we?

 
 

I travelled to Hamburg with Lauren and Ashlee back in ’09, but mainly with the purpose of visiting my cousins, and only for a couple of days. I remember walking along the water edge, going to markets, shopping for chocolate, and lots and lots of earmuffed seagulls.

But, with the exception of the Nikolai Church, I didn’t remember much about the physical appearance of the city.

Let’s be honest, I’m not great with physical landmarks anyway- but in my defense, it was winter last time- and the changes between the seasons are so extreme here that if they came any more rapidly I wouldn’t be able to recognise the street of my own apartment from one month to the next.

Our guide took us past Chile Haus, dedicated to the country- but strangely adorned with polar bears.

I guess they match the penguins.

The whole thing is rather spectacularly shaped like a ship- Hamburgians have a bit of a ship fetish from what we could tell, but I guess that makes sense with their rich (fiscally) past involving the sea, plus, according to wiki, the fact that they are still the second largest port in Europe.
 

What is important to mention that it is not shaped like Chile the country, despite how much Andy tried to convince the guide.

We also walked by the building formerly occupied by the company that made Zyklon B. Originally made as a pesticide, it was later used by the Nazis to gas its victims in the Holocaust. The company was found to have removed the warning smell from Zyklon B, and thus were found guilty of playing a deliberate role in the deaths.

The building is no longer occupied by the same company, but carries a memorial plaque to the victims nonetheless.

We journeyed onwards, to Nikolai church, the church I remember as a MontyPythonesque ‘burned down, fell over and then sank into the swamp’ project. In reality I think it only burned down and got bombed into the swamp, but one has to question whether such ‘acts of God’ were actually some sort of message.

 
Of course, as with all German structures, it comes complete with memorials.

We travelled on, where Andy found, and fell in love with, this water fountain

 
As you can probably guess, the cylinders rotate and bubble, making a rather pretty little clockwork show. Because of the motion, and the heat generated, it is the only fountain in the world to still operate when the temperature drops to minus 30.

If you travel down a secret pathway…



 
 
…you come to a ‘water courtyard’, enclosed by houses…
 


…some of which look suspiciously Dutch.

 

The building to the right is, if I remember correctly, the original burning point of the Great Fire of 1842- which raged for 4 days, took out Nikolai church, killed 51 people and left about 20,000 homeless.

We fled for some more water, to the new Harbourside town…

… where our guide coerced a few of the guidees to reenact the story of Klaus Störtebeker.

He was originally hired to cut off the Danish supply lines during one of the many Danish-Swedish tiffs, but so enjoyed the piracy that he decided to make a career out of it.

When captured, he is said to have offered a chain of gold long enough to wrap around Hamburg in exchange for his freedom, and then, when this was denied, he asked that as many of his men be spared as he could walk past after his head had been chopped off.

Apparently he walked quite well for a headless man, and was only stopped by the executioner (tripping him, or- as we were told- throwing the executioners block over him). All the men were killed despite his efforts, and when the senate asked the executioner if he was tired, and he replied that he could ‘easily execute all the senate as well’, the finished his life off too.

When we finished the tour, we wandered along the harbor, where we met up with some of those gulls I remember so well form last time, and ate some Nordsee FishandChips.

 

Andy wanted to go and check out the Reeperbahn- Hamburg’s very own red-light district, so, as he promised he wasn’t into the sex and drugs and just wanted to check out the rock ‘n’ roll, we headed over.

The Beatles statues are Beatlesplatz were honestly a bit disappointing- although Andy tried to make the most of it:

And then we saw this beauty.

 

 
 

As we were walking through a park, Andy mentioned the presence of a rather large man in the vicinity. I will admit that my expectations did not really prepare me for the awesomeness of

THE. BISMARK. MONUMENT.

Can you even find Andy in the picture?

We walked past more buildings that look like boats, and then popped into an up a church.

 
 

It’s pretty impressive when a church comes complete with its own halo.

Incidentally, the church has an opshop very close buy, which has (had- I bought them all) some rather wonderful things.

We met up with Andy’s parents for way too much dinner, and then took a ferry around the harbor.

I rather love these shipping cranes. They remind me of Fremantle, and make me think of dinosaurs.



Potsdamer Schlössernacht

Once a year Sanssouci opens its gates at night, and, surrounded by musicians, actors, and period costumed extras, visitors can explore the beautifully light palaces and glowing gardens.

I saw it as a nice excuse to dress up in a new frock (although it turned out that I was the only one not wearing jeans and practical shoes- I still have some assimilating to go).

Andy saw it as an excuse to show off his wonderful new moustache:

It was a lovely setting. We arrived just after 7pm, and wandered through the paths, occasionally passing a random flautist or violinist, or stumbling upon a gathering watching some sort of German period drama:

This fellow was very ‘Let them eat cake’ (French and Saunders comedy on the french revolution- if you haven’t seen it you very much should. Slightly lowbrow, but excessively hilarious).

Of course, you probably shouldn’t go if you’re not into ancient palaces silhouetted against swirling skies, or catching the last drops of sunlight.

In addition to the Artists and their art, the gardens were littered with the little ‘christmas market-y’ food tents that I love.

At the start I was a little disappointed there wasn’t anything ‘posher’- I’m thinking wine and cheese and delicate little canapes- the sort of thing befitting a royal palace.

But after discussing it in depth with Andy and only coming up with ‘very small potatoes’ and ‘artfully placed cabbage’ as potentials for the German version of hors d’oeuvres, we decided to be quite content with our cheese covered bretzels.

Being the nerdy planties that we are, we spent quite a bit of time in the botanic gardens…

… and were very happy to find an Aussie section, with eucalypts, bottle brushes, banksias…

(not that Andy’s face is really portraying the happiness)

And bougainvillea. Although this might actually be from Brazil. But as our second home in Perth- The Swamp Shack – is absolutely covered in the stuff, it always reminds me of Australia.

 Did I mention there were people in costumes?

 I’m seriously contemplating buying one of those wigs. I see it as more of an ‘investment’ than an actual purchase.

 As the light dropped, the park became more and more beautiful.

We stopped outside the picture gallery to watch the end of a play, that involved women disguised as men in pantaloons, a lot of prancing (to live music), and repeated mention of the word ‘ghost’. My guess had something to do with the main man being ‘unfaithful’ and the women springing him. Andy interpreted it as a ‘Christmas Carol-esque’ thing with ‘ghosts of girlfriends past. Which shows you how terrible our German still is.

But you know, all great art is open to interpretation from the masses.

Do you like my jacket?

It feels period appropriate, but I’m sure one or two of you will be able to tell me that it’s actually from the wrong period.

My natural crazy-cat-lady genes allowed me to find this little fellow, who was intent on watching (and occasionally pouncing on and eating) the larger of the bugs attracted to the lights.

And then we moved on to the ‘Chinese Tea House’. I think I’ve featured this before, although in the ‘cold light of day’, and mentioned that, with the exception of the memorial plaque to Fredrick the Great that’s always completely covered in potatoes, it’s probably my favourite thing about the park.

It’s amazingly over the top, and decorated in a ‘I can’t believe it isn’t Asian way’, with statues clearly designed by that same guy who did the lions at Trafalgar square or those fellows who made all the old tapestries.

You know the ones, where the lions look a lot more like dogs, and it’s immediately evident that the artist has never seen anything more closely related to a lion than a house cat?

The tea house takes a similar approach to the Orient.

But doesn’t it look lovely all lit up?

Moving on we encountered one of the many ‘talking trees’ of the path- who would explain in an appropriately pompous voice, what they are, where they come from, and why they’re so unique- medicinal properties and the like.

I’m sorry to say that I can’t remember this fine young fellow’s name, but I’m going to assume it was Oscar.

Does this look familiar to any of the Plant biologists?

Think C3-C4 plants….

It’s Cleome spinosa!

We finished our massive loop of the gardens at the New Palace, arriving just before the fireworks began.

Which was spectacular. The fireworks were all perfectly timed with the classical music that boomed out over the crowds.

It was like watching Fantasia in real life.

Copenhagen IV

I was a bit lazy with the photo-taking on my last day in Copenhagen.

Please forgive me.

This rather stunning spiral building is Vor Freslers Kirke/Our Saviour’s Church. We heard about it a bit on the walking tour, when our guide mentioned that generally, towers like this were designed to have a left handed spiral.

This purpose of the ‘chirality’ being to give a right handed castle-dweller an advantage in defence of his home, against other right handed, sword-holding attackers, who might be trying to come up the spiral.

Easier to hack at steel and flesh when you’ve got a bit of air for the swinging.

The story, as told by our guide, is that the architect built it wrong, and then, as some sort of self-imposed punishment, threw himself from the top.

Sound a bit far fetched?

It gets outright ridiculous-sounding if you actually make your way to the top of the 90m building: the whole spiral just kind of… peeters out.

No doors leading inside, no ledge, no flag post.

No nice little icecream prize for being a good girl and climbing all the way up.

The stairs wrapping around the building just wrap tighter and disappear.

 Odd.

So what do you think?
a) truth
b) lie
c) I’ve watched too much QI and I’m afraid that either answer is going to make the alarm go off.

The internet tells me: lie.

The architect died in his bed seven years later. Although the writer of that article also suggested that right-handed twisting is good so that the ‘left hand rests on the railing’ while you do your hacking.
Huh.

Despite having forgotten our swords in the armory, the three Wiszniewskis and I took the many stairs, through pokey stairways that often seemed closer to tree house ladders than deliberate and permanent architectural features, to the very top of the tower.

The view was terrific, making Church-Climbing a Compulsory Challenge for Copenhagen!

But it was also terrifically terrifying. It was windy, and after Andy mentioned it I kept on imagining that the building was swaying. Plus there were waaaay too many people trying to shove past, and the golden railing felt very, very low.

We also checked out the church itself. For me, the most impressive things were the elephants guarding the doors.

That may say more about me than the church though…

While we were clinging madly to the sides of the church spire, we momentarily co-clung with a fellow Australian- an artist who was visiting the city for a few months, and she happened to mention in detail the glory that was Christiania.

Which just happened to be our main sight for the sight-seeing of the day.

Christiania is basically a massive commune, occupying, according to Wiki, 34 Ha, and containing 850 residents. They’ve ‘separated themselves’ from the city, and have a certain ‘special status’ as far as some legal issues go, although the reality of what this means is apparently (still) being debated 40 plus years after its foundation.

And the reason law enters into it is that Christiania is very pro-marijuana. They’re anti- hard drugs, anti- violence and weapons, and fairly anti- ownership (of cars in particular). But if you go there, you go to see the ‘green light district’ where large piles of Cannabis, in all its incarnations, are displayed for sale.

Which is why I don’t have any photos. Marijuana being illegal in Copenhagen and all, the sellers are not so keen to have their photos taken. And like the Red-light district of Amsterdam, people who try to take photos in the Green light district apparently get their photos broken.

I’m going to be honest: I found the whole thing boring and tacky. Maybe if I was more into the drugs?
But it was just all a big capitalist tourist trap. They had deliberately kitsch ‘markets’, selling exactly the items you’d expect: Bob Marley hats, South American ‘alpaca’ sweaters, Tibetan prayer flags… and so on.
I found it totally boring that they had just stolen everyone else’s symbols in an attempt to be ‘totally spiritual man’. 
I found it tacky that a commune that was supposed to be separating itself from the crap of society, was so clearly running on the cash of stupid rich tourists. 
Although I guess in saying that I’m assuming that part of their mission is to be ‘above capitalism’, but really, from our visit we have little evidence of that. As Andy mentioned later, it would have been nice to see a museum of some sort- read about their mission statement, hear about their founding fathers. See if there was more to the town than it’s shiny, ugly exterior.
The surrounding houses were nice, in the way they had let the trees grow over and everything ‘run down’ a bit, but the rest… I could just as easily leave it.

Which we did, partially because we had an ice-cream mission.

Our friend Joram had, very conveniently for us, been to Copenhagen just a few weeks before our visit, and being a man of fine taste, had marked out a few ‘must try’ places.

Sicilliansk Is.

Delicious icecream? Tick.
Nice little hipster Copenhagen boy behind the counter? Tick.

I went with my standard chocolate, plus the ‘butter milk’-ish flavour, which is apparently based on a Danish dessert, and a Sanddorn flavour, which I got because I had no idea exactly what Sanddorn was.

I’m still not exactly sure- but you should googleimage it just to check out the awesome berries these things make.

Next stop: Assistens Cemetery. The final resting place of Hans Christian Anderson (as if you didn’t know his name would pop up again sooner or later). Also of Neils Bohr, and a whole lot of other famous people who we didn’t know.

It was definitely a beautiful place- maybe not as ‘ethereal’ as the one we saw with Ashleigh, but still enough to think ‘hmm, I still would rather be charred and sprinkled, but I kinda get this whole in-the-ground-for-the-worms-to-eat thing’.

I seem to have stopped photographing at that point. We had a bit more of a walk around the studenty area of Copenhagen (Norrebro)- which turned out to have many op shops and many interesting looking stores. 
Of course, with the exception of one (which I ducked into and came out of with a hat), all of them were closed for the day by the time we arrived. So we’ll have to go back to Copenhagen for a shopping spree. Actually, Norrebro seemed to be a very interesting area- Joram described it as Kreuzberg-ish, and I regret that we didn’t get to spend more time there, and really do think that we’ll have to make another visit.

I had to catch the plane home that night, so we had an early dinner at a burger bar, possibly brining my burger total up to three in the four days I spent in Copenhagen. (I miss good burgers. Germans don’t understand the concept of proper burger bun bread, and their beef is terrible! Someone post me a Missy Moo Blue Cow?).

After our weekend, I’m seriously shocked that more young Aussies don’t go to Copenhagen as part of their traditional ‘eurotripping’. I know Rome, Paris, London etc are more classic, but Copenhagen has ample culture (although I barely got a chance to dip my toes in), beautiful parks to visit, and seems to have lovely urban jungle areas that are just good for the wild roaming. The prices are a bit steep compared to the rest of Europe, but seem ultimately pretty comparable to Perth as far as food and short-term accommodation go.

Seriously- check it out!

Copenhagen III

The horrible realisation hit us on the morning of the third day in Copenhagen:

We’d been in Denmark for 40 hours, and not eaten a single danish!

Luckily, this was a situation that could be easily rectified: we rushed to our local Lagkagehuset (a bakery chain that produces goods above and beyond what you’d expect for something of its ilk), where I scoffed down a cinnamon pastry, and a truly delicious chocolate rye ball.*

*we managed to discover that the rye balls will last several days without any major changes to their composition. So if anyone’s in Denmark and wants to post me a few…

Our plans for the day were somewhat grand- we were taking a train to the north, where we would visit Hamlet’s Castle at Helsingor. Then we would ride across the ‘sea’ to Sweden, have a look around, travel back down the Swedish coast and train across the Swedish-Danish bridge.
Coming from Australia, where our borders are pretty well defined, I found the whole ‘ferry to another country’ rather amusing. But more on that later.
This is in the north, but it’s not the castle.
Europeans sure know how to do their train stations in style.

The city was smaller and ‘quainter’ that I’d expected- although part of that was due to it being a Sunday- most things were closed, but at least not ‘German closed’. When we arrived we realised that the sunny ‘Copenhagen weather’ of the day before clearly didn’t apply to Helsingor. So we rushed into the nearest store and bought the warmest woolliest tights we could find, and (I) shamelessly put them on in the middle of the street.

That super fancy modern building in the background is actually a library- one of the most beautiful, alluring, functional libraries I’ve ever seen.
Let’s take a peak inside:
The ground floor had a reception, and a cafe area, with extremely artsy chairs, perhaps not the most pleasing for those with a delicate bum.
But the first floor was just amazing. It was all of the children and young adult stuff. They had this capsule reading room, giant hippos to sit on, and tons of wonderful places for kids to lounge around.
Plus these:

The first and second floors had the adult sections, with all the books you can imagine, plus magazines and newspapers, reading nooks, a stunning view over the harbour and this:

 Do you remember Funny Face? I’m pretending to be Hepburn. Except that I’m actually pulling a ‘funny face’ because I put the camera on timer, and about two seconds before it went off someone walked in front of me trying to work out why the girl was clinging to the ladder posing and aiming a pose at a bookshelf.

Speaking of posing:

 They also had their own version of the little mermaid. Perhaps they thought it was sexist that a woman was getting all the attention back in Copenhagen?

We headed to the castle, keeping an eye out for William.
The history of the place is quite amazing, even if you’re not that into Shakespeare. 
Through the positioning of this castle, and a twin on the other side of the sea in what is now Sweden, the Danish kings were able to control passage of all ships into the Baltic sea. Initially they charged a fee per ship, but then realised they could charge a percentage of the worth of the goods, and the money started rolling in. Of course, the ship owners at first tried to massively undervalue their cargo, but they soon found that if they tried that, the king would buy their goods for the lower price, and then on-sell it, keeping the profit for himself. 
This all ended when an American ship refused to pay for passage, but they had a pretty good run of it. And the wealth is reflected in the castle halls, but also in the tails of great feasts lasting for weeks, with eating of too much food, and the respective disgustingness of having to rapidly rid oneself of the food. 
One of these actions involved the top end, and an Ostrich feather used to tickle the throat. 
The other required lots of hay.

I’ll be honest, hearing about the parties was enough to make me claustrophobic. Plus the stories were coupled to ‘fairytales’ of the 30-40 year old king, and his blissful marriage to a 14 year old (who of course, for the purpose of the tourists, was very much in love with him, so you know, that totally makes the statutory rape ok).

Of course it would be rude to the memory of our beloved Bill to not make at least something of the location:

ALAS!
Who do you think is the most convincing?
We took an energising piece of cake and made an executive decision to sail for greener pastures. 
The ferry was like a tiny shopping mall, with food court, duty free shop and supermarket. I guess because the alcohol is more regulated in Sweden than Denmark, everyone was taking their chance to buy cartons of Carlsberg before they got off. 

All up the trip took about 20 minutes. Which, as I’ve mentioned before, is ridiculous. When we were on the walking tour we heard about a man who was working for the resistance in Denmark during the war (II). To get the information to the right people he had to get out of Denmark. The first time he practically made a working plane from scraps. The second time, he waited until it was a bit chilly, and walked across the sea to Sweden.

Having taken the ferry, I find the story somewhat more believable.

Although, it should be noted that you ARE going into another country: 

We had a bit of a wander around Helsingor’s sister city, Helsingborg.

… And then, seeing as we were now in Sweden, we feasted on open sandwiches.

This next shot is for my father, who keeps making comments about Andy’s ‘stunned bunny’ look in photos.
Happy?

We then took the train down to Malmo- which roughly lines up with Copenhagen latitudinally.

After dinner in Sweden, we took the train over the bridge back to Denmark. This, say it with me now, is clearly ridiculous! 

While discussing this with a German at work, she noted that near her birthplace, you can stand on the spot that marks the corner of Germany, Belgium and the Netherlands.

It is now my singular life goal to go to there!

Check out how hip these Swedish underground stations are. There is one drawback though:

Copenhagen, part II

The in-laws humoured me in accompanying me to a Fleamarket on Saturday morning.

I miss flea markets and proper opshops! Back home they were my main source of clothing (and jewellery and book and nic-nacs). Apart from the fact that I don’t feel so much like a filthy shallow consumer when buying pretty second hand frilly things, I also enjoy the ‘hunt’: the searching through racks and racks of crap to find something fancy. But, aside from a few fairly poorly outfitted Oxfams, the Potsdam-Berlin area seems to mostly be filled with fancy second hand and vintage ’boutiques’… not at all good for hunting.

So I took advantage of the high-wage, high-cost Perth-like society of Copenhagen, and we all took the 9A bus to Frederiksberg where they run a pretty decent sized fleamarkets (every Saturday morning from 8am to 15:00). I shopped my little heart out and came home with a navy dress- decorated with slightly abstract Chinese characters, and a new winter coat- the latter being the equivalent of <6 euros (plus Karen Millen for those of you playing at home). Photos of the coat to come in the winter. The dress will feature fairly heavily in the next couple of blogs.

We had a coffee before taking the 9A bus back to the centre. The bus was somewhat erratic in its schedule, but in the good ‘coming more than it should’ way- and Andy bestowed upon it the title of ‘Bus NineAnarchy’.

We joined up with a walking tour group- one of the free ones from Sandeman. Andy and I have done a couple now- in London, Amsterdam etc.- and they’re usually a pretty nice way to get a look around the city, to orient yourself and to learn a bit of the (slightly exaggerated) history of the streets.

This one went for a couple of hours, and lead us through some very picturesque areas, eventually ending up at the royal palace, somewhere in the vicinity of the Little Mermaid.

The building to the left was one of our favourites. It’s the stock market, and the spire is actually made up of the twirling tails of dragons (can you make them out at the bottom of the spire sitting with their bums in the air?). Apparently, like all great cities of its time, Copenhagen had some issues with flammability, and the dragons, while representing strength, are also supposed to act as protection from the fires.

Copenhagen is a pretty good place for elephant spotting: they’re the symbol of the city, representing strength and … possibly wisdom??

All good long walks should end in a large meal. And all large meals should end in a long walk. Herein lies the mystery of life (in my family).

We sat down for a rather splendid picnic in the park, and dined on fresh bread, cheese and meats, and a punnet of cherries.

European cities do very very fine botanical gardens. This one is quite central, rather large, and free (which, given that we’re in Copenhagen, is quite something!)

I suspect there’s a turtle somewhere in that photo, but I can’t for the life of me find it.

Look Ma! I found some tobacco (the plant I work with everyday).

I suspect this is how you know that you’re not in Deutschland anymore. My current mood is that ‘in Deutschland you wouldn’t have the sign, you’d just know in your Deutsch DNA whether the gras was sit-onable or not’. But that might be because we went to a cafe yesterday and got thoroughly scolded for sitting too many people around a table (in a tipping society where we were all buying food and multiple rounds of drinks, this seemed very very odd). Probably they’d have a sign. Or a nosey old lady would tell you to move along. 

Our plan to find the place where Andy’s sister once ate a rather nice duck sandwich led us to a beautifully cluttered indoor market place… but we were all too full of cherries (and was there icecream in there somewhere too?) to eat anything else.

It seemed it was time to do a bit more exercising (output) before we were allowed more input.

Tower Climbing Time!

When my sister and her friend did a eurotrip many years ago, they made a point of climbing the tallest building in every city. I think I see their point:

I feel there should be a cross indicating negation in this warning sign. Right now it’s just egging me on.

We seemed to have arrived at Mahlzeit again

And the day ended as all days should. With Andy sliding down a giant parrot slide:

Copenhagening around

The parents (Andy’s) spent a week away from us, in Sweden, with plans to then cross the unbelievably narrow sea to Denmark by Friday evening. With that in mind, Andy and I headed to Copenhagen of Thursday evening, to scout the place out before meeting up with his folks.

We arrived fairly early in the evening, after a flight which lasted literally 45 minutes and was therefore all take off and landing with no meaty flighty bit. Not that I’m complaining- but coming from Perth, where you can fly for about five hours and still be in Australia, I’m not sure I’m ever going to get used to this continent’s tininess.

We walked about ten paces from the main train station (in turn only 12 minutes by train from the airport), through a European summer night filled with trumpet sounds. They had some sort of Jazz festival on in the city, which meant we were also accompanied by trumpets the next morning, and on occasion throughout the following days….so Copenhagen looks like elephants and dragons and castles and sunshine, tastes like burgers and buttermilk icecream (more on that later!), and sounds like trumpets.

Our hotel was pleasingly red, and the beds pleasingly sleep-inducing, and we slept and lazed until well into the next morning.

And then set off to explore…

(Do you see the adorable little birds on the corner of this pillar?)

And to fill ourselves with food at the delightfully decked out Cafe Obelix.

I come from a family of horders with at least a sprinkling of gardening genes thrown in, so this sort of ordered chaotic clutter with plants and bottles and pictures is right up my alley.

Andy’s alley involved more food: bacon, sausages, fried AND scrambled eggs, a pancake, bread, fruit salad, juice, coffee….

 I went for a burger, which, I’ll have you know, is a perfectly respectable brunchtime meal option.

I promise you that the radioactive coloured goo translates to tastiness in one’s mouth!

More exploring, complete with multiple fountains, street art, statues and posing.

As far as sights go, Copenhagen has many very beautiful building, modern and old- and lovely parks and gardens and a fairly pretty coastline. But for the ‘big bucks’, they tend to rely on good old H. C. Anderson, and his story of the little mermaid. We saw several statues, plaques signalling places he lived, his grave- and of course the famous sculpture of his little mermaid, and even an more modern interpretation of her ‘genetically modified’ sister.

 After about 4 hours of walking, we headed to the hotel of Andy’s parents- conveniently located right across the road from ours. Onwards! to several more hours of walking/exploring, punctuated by icecream, which, for possibly the first time in my life, I felt too full to commit to.

Not that it stopped the others.

Finally, the group became aware of the repeated cries of Mari-Anne: it was time to sit down and have some solid food.

We stopped in a restaurant called Toldboden, situated not-too-far from the famous mermaid. It was incredibly packed, and I think mostly with locals, who were crammed around bowls of shrimp at wooden picnic style tables, or lounging in the sun on deckchairs. There was a fight to get a table, which Andy and I failed miserably at, but luckily the more aggressive older generation came to the rescue.

While waiting for our food, I ordered this really delicious hipster-y Rhubarb drink, while Andy’s mum, being the filthy little copy-cat that she is, went for a raspberry. We later branched out to the other two members of the collection- and tasted Holunder blossom (too flowery) and a blackcurrent one (very Ribena-y), but ultimately decided that we’d ‘won’ with the first choices.

And we all chowed down on some very delicious rosemary-salt chips, with crunchy fish pieces, fish rissoles and accompanying sides.

 We walked off our leafy greens, gradually making our way to the Mermaid.

I was allowed icecream, having missed out in the first round, but for some reason had to share. Stupid common-law partnership!
We visited the ‘ugly sister’ of the little mermaid- affectionately called the ‘genetically modified mermaid’. Insert here any usual comments about genetic modification and bad press. 
I’m going to jump the gun on all my relatives and acknowledge that if the little mermaid is Ariel, then this poor sister with its bent little feet must be a Tegan. Probably after licking too much ethidium bromide (mutagen used in lab- not usually recommended for the licking- but just so red and pretty and irresistible).

Stumbling across some errant gym equipment, we jumped at the opportunity to work off our fish.

And then ambled home.

The In-laws: a week-long food voyage

This Monday, Andy’s parents flew in from Perth, so we’ve been meeting up with them after work every evening, to try to show them some of our favourite places.

Of course, many of those places happen to serve good food.

On Monday we went to the Big Smoke, meeting them at Zoo and then walking along the Ku’damm to a fairly decent French restaurant to tuck into some tasty food. In an unplanned coupling, the ‘girls’ went for truffle linguini with Pfifferlinge, and the ‘boys’ steaked it. Pfifferlinge translates to chantarelle mushrooms, and the people who know much more about these things than myself have noted that they are the first of the mushies to appear as the seasons change.

And appear they have!: every restaurant we’ve passed in the last week has had at least two or three Pfifferlinge dishes.

You all know how I feel about mushrooms. The Reign of the Spargel seems to be wanning, and the Pfifferlinge (plus the strawberry and its assorted berry friends) are rising: I think I could be very, very happy indeed in July!

Anyway, I was very lax/too busy stuffing my face with various species of fungi, and managed to miss all the food action, so we’ll have to move onto Tuesday: in which the parentals visit us at work and in our humble abode.

I’m not sure if any of you remember the photos of me squatting (in a non-vulgar sense) on a frozen lake on winter? This is that lake. It looks happier now. Speaking of squatting:


Did I tell you I love grasses? And they are native (probably) here, so Mother cannot scold me from pulling off the seeds and throwing them in the air triumphantly.

Back at the apartment we pulled out our Ikea table to fit 4, and loaded it with salad, speck, schmand, rosemary-garlic potatoes, broccoli and pork….

… and did what families do best: ate more than should be physically possible.

On Wednesday and Thursday we managed to couple the eating with a visit from Rob, who had ducked into Berlin for a few days. We extended across the continent, from French to Turkish- and heartily took to the eating of delicious stews and tasting plates at Knoffi.

I really love the atmosphere in Knoffi, they have strings of dried eggplant hanging form the ceiling, a massive cabinet filled with olives and artichokes and chickpea salads and hundreds of dips and pastes, and every corner is stuffed with baklavas and oils and various wares from that part of the world.

It’s everything a little horder like me could ever dream of!

 

My tasting plate- tapenade, stuffed vine leaves, homous and a chilli-creamcheese paste, plus artichoke salad and chickpea salad, and some various vegetables, and all served with a massive basket of turkish bread.

To walk off some of the food, we did a short wander around Kreuzberg, including through Viktoria park, which holds a large memorial at the top of the hill and is otherwise filled with flowing streams, windy paths and big grassy areas ripe for the picnicing.

Thursday was Italian, at Potsdam’s Pfeffer and Saltz- where they make their own very tasty pasta and rather delicious pizzas.

Mine had air-dried cured ham, fresh tomatoes, rucola, and thick shreds of some sort of strong and tasty Italian cheese.

Of course, the food required yet more walking, so we headed through the Innenstadt, through the park, over the bridge, and back to Schlaatzstrasse, to show off the apartment to Rob.

These blue ones were just amazingly vibrant, and there were whole garden beds filled with seas of different blues!

And on Friday it was time for a taste of Asia: we wandered around Kreuzberg for a bit….

… then made our way to Cuno, near U-Schlesisches Tor.

And ate what I think is easily the best asian food I have so far had in Deutschland. We had fresh prawn vietnamese spring rolls, satay chicken, fried vegetable spring rolls, maki rolls with duck and mushroom, papaya salad and a crispy thai beef salad, some delightful fried fish in a spicy red curry sauce, and superbly cooked duck in a mango curry.

… and then had to walk a bit more…

..was food that was tasty- ty ty!

This was by far the poshest port we stayed in.

The night before, when we sailed in, we went to have dinner at a small, overpriced restaurant. 
On the table behind us were three decked-out middle aged society ladies, plus the hapless husband of one of them- who spent the night flirting with the owners and discussing how their friend’s brother just wasn’t the same ‘type of person’ (of the same snobbery) as his siblings.
On the table in front of us was an old, overweight, clearly-wealthy German man. He was eating alone when a tanned bottle blond of 40-50 dressed in 20-30 came in, sat at the table next to him, and turned on her charm. She found out within about two seconds that he was in a relationship ‘good, so you’re not lonely’, but kept the charm on (he seemed to be ok with it), and kept trying to lure him to a second location. At one point she asked him what his ‘thing’ was. Because ‘everyone who comes to Majorca has a thing‘. For example her friend was a writer, a poet. Coincidentally it turned out the he wrote poetry too. I think she was impressed. Then the owner came out, a german woman, and the man started talking to her. In german. The blond lady couldn’t understand, was put out, and showed it. She kept interrupting, trying to make him leave with her.  She tossed her hair, crossed and uncrossed her legs and waved her heels about. Eventually she go the message and left.
It was gross. As, to a lesser degree though, was the food- I ordered a salad which had overripe (off) avocado and overlybitter lettuce, and the service-I felt like it was immediately recognised that we weren’t the wealthy kind of customer. 
But everything was beautiful in the morning:
And the posh people seemed to have gone away- sleeping off their hangovers from their overpriced champagne, regretting their decisions of the night before.
Instead we had still waters, beautiful blues, and duckies begging for bread!

Some of these things are not like the others:
 (He’s very beautiful- but when I tried to save him I realised he was already well gone).
As usually, we spent the morning taking in the town, and soaking in the sunshine.

 
.. and taking GruppenFotos! Stolen from Marta again. I’m kinda loving how Marta and I are pulling of modeleque Smizing (also known as ‘squinting’). 
The water had definitely hit what we’re calling ‘azure crystal’, but alas! a few degrees too cold to swim still.

 (This one and below also from Marta)

Before we headed back to the boat, we ducked into a supermarket. Andy an I bought mopheads, because apparently germans don’t believe in the power of the string mop. Of course, it’s been weeks and weeks, and I still can’t find the right stick to allow attachment of the heads…

I also managed to snaffle this- which is a deliciously light and fluffy pastry stuffed with bitter dark chocolate. 
I cannot recommend it enough to anyone who has a soul!
Back to our beloved boat, for the final ever sail- ‘homewards’ to Palma.

(photo from Marta).
We had to be back before 5pm, and- because we easily made the deadline- and because this is the Northern hemisphere, where spring sunlight lasts forever, we had a bit of time for Palma exploration. So we slapped on some more sunscreen, scrambled over the boat next to us (our boat was weirdly parked so that we only had indirect dock access), and headed up to the very tip out the Palma hill.. to the Princess Castle of Walt Disney’s dreams.
(This is during the hill climbing- from Marta)

What do you think? Maybe a bit less pink than Walt would have liked. But with moats and turrets and archways and wells! All very glam.

And 360 degree views across the whole city.

Although of course some people will be plant-nerds!

 Marta got heavily into the GruppenFotos- these next few are all from her:

This last one, also from Marta, is on the way down the hill.
This one is also down near the ocean:
Can you see at the pack near the water there is a tiny arch? As as we walked past a lady came and lowered a little dish of something down on a string. Almost immediately, 2 or three cats shot out, and started chowing down on the (presumably) biscuits in the dish. Spanish love their cats!
So we headed down the hill with our tummies starting to rumble, which turned out to be quite conveniently timed for a meeting with Rafa and friends, and the eating of large amounts of Tapas.
We went to a couple of little bars- the first of which was possibly the most hipster place I’ve ever seen in my life.

Andy was right at home:

(Above and below from Marta)

And here’s me taking photos of my food.
You’re welcome.
You’re welcome, you’re welcome, you’re welcome:

The thing with the cheese circle and then jam-y thing on top was one of the most delicious things I’ve ever tasted!
We didn’t stay long, because the town was calling.

Rafa took us to this ‘hidden-behind-closed-doors’ type place, which is apparently where the royals come when the visit the island. It had fairly exorbitant prices, and the most Over the Top decorating I have ever seem in my life. Up stairs were rooms straight out of Versailles, overlooking a beautiful enclosed courtyard. We only took a couple of shots, because technically no photos were allowed- and in fact a group of tourists tried to come in as we were leaving and were prevented from entering. 
But I think you’ll get the picture:
As you enter- that’s real fruit and fresh rose petals by the way.
From the top of the stairs looking back at the door, the fruit shrine is kind of hidden by the chandelier- but you can see the woman in khaki taking a snap of it.
I kid you not!
This was just ridiculous: rather ‘girl with the pearl earring’-y no?
 (Photo from Marta).
I wish I’d worn my finery!
Not that that stopped me:
(again, from Marta)
In the bathroom, of course:
Just- WOW! Next time we go we must have a (10 euro) coffee! And wear our pearls!
Anyway, back on the street, where swines like us belong! To something more reasonable, and- I’d bet, a hell of a lot tastier.
(Another Marta Photo)

Oh My! I’m sorry it’s blurry- but that in the foreground is some sort of slow-cooked octopus. It is tender, it is succulent.. it is… indescribably good. 
Will you be convinced of its merit if I mention that, just trying to describe it you you now, I am literally salivating??
We ordered one. 
And then we ordered more.
After the deliciousness, everyone headed to a bar/club with live music near the port. I have to confess that at this point Andy and I bowed out, and headed back to our boat for our final night of sleep in Majorca.

Dinosaur Days

I think it’s actually impossible that any day featuring more than one dinosaur can be not awesome.

It started with dinosaur pasta!

As I have probably ranted to you before, I tend to morally object to ‘organic’ food (50 % on the basis of ‘I find it hard to believe that the carbon and whatever else inside your food is ‘inorganic’ and 50 % on ‘I am poor and this is probably a scam).

Which is why I haven’t really been into the new Bio store in the Hbf very much.

But what a treat! Dinosaur Pasta. And endorsed by T-Rex no less!

I will admit that I was a little sad that there were only three types of dinosaurs, imagine the outrage, for example, if alphabet soup came only with the letters X, K and R. But this was mostly due to the absence of my favourite friend- Parasaurolophus.

Onwards to the Hauptbahnhof, with the promise of possibly-not-real-but-real-life-sized dinosaurs to actually leave the house and possibly even go to the gym on a Lazy Sunday.

They had a kind of ‘Jurassic Park’ set up, with labs and eggs and… VELOCIRAPTORS!

Now, this might be a slightly controversial statement, but I would warrant that Transperth would get a lot more action if the Esplanade had dinosaurs.

Something to think about Perth Government!

And oldish man was looking at the sign for the T-Rex, and when we came back after 10 minutes he was still there.. but he very kindly moved aside and offered to take a photo for us. Clearly my camera recognises T-Rex as more important that us, focus-wise!

What was weird was that two hours later, after going for dinner and then walking back to the station from Potsdam, we were about to cut through the station when we noticed that the same man was still gazing at the T-Rex.

Andy’s parents are coming to visit in a couple of weeks, and we realised that we really haven’t tried enough of the local restaurants to make informed recommendations.

Also.. I promised some of you food porn…

This place was on the main street, and was apparently ‘Thai’ but also served Sushi.

As most vaguely Asian places seem to do in Germany…

Crispy duck! The duck was super tasty, but the sauce and accompanying veges were a bit- bleh.

Andy got some version of red curry, which had ‘two chilis’ and was therefore supposed to be ‘superhot’, but was, as usual, rather weak.

I was impressed by their fortune cookies at least! The last ones we bought (from Kaufland) pretty much said things like ‘Hello’ and ‘Sometimes, things that are red are pretty’. These ones seem to be proper Fortunes, with predict-y powers and everything.

And then we walked home in the crazy light of German Summer.

These photos are taken between 9 pm and 9:30. It’s just super mind-boggling how long the sun hangs around.

It’s pretty eh?

In addition to the strange light, one of the things that’s really playing with my senses, is these white flowers:

I swear they smell EXACTLY like pink hubbabubba, and every time we go past them (they’re just in front of the hauptbahnhof), I get assaulted with the scent of our childhood.

Our home is <—- Thataway!!!

…was a field of almond tree-tree-trees

How long does it take you to organise your snaps after a successful holiday?

Clearly the answer for me is ‘too long’- but that’s because I tend to be over-exuberant with the shutter button.

I think most of us agreed that Soller was one of the most beautiful places we visited. It has a decent amount of shops and restaurants around the port, which was filled with blues and whites and shimmering waters just as we’d come to hope and even expect:

Around the bay ran a tram line- one of the oldest on the island according to Marta’s travel guide, which took you past some beautiful scenery and up the hill to the main city.

 (These two photos are stolen from Marta- Thanks Marta!)

As you can tell from my whimsical poses, I’m pretending I’m a lady from….whatever the Majorcan equivalent of ‘colonial times’ works out as. I was glad to be wearing my ‘gown’, and it is very possible that at some stage during the day Marta and I had a discussion about how we wished we had proper hair and hats to match the period feel of the train that was hurtling us through the mountains.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. Here is us being less refined.

 (These two photos are also from Marta)

The tram ride, which is a little expensive (5 euros per person), was definitely worth it for the landscapes. I’m going to use the word picturesque. As a Perthian- coming from a city without trams, I think it’s easy to attach a certain romance to a tram ride.

The city itself was everything a tourist coming to a small spanish town could hope for! In the centre was a square, with- what else- a church as feature point, and small streets, of the narrow and winding sort, radiated from it.

 We sat in the sun, and ate freshly baked pastries, and drank freshly squeezed orange juice.

There may have also been icecream.

The cats were given to have breakfast too (not by us)!

We headed towards the train station. The plan of the day was to take an (also ancient) train that hurtled across and through mountains towards Palma. And then catch the train back to Soller and continue to sail towards Palma.

It was incredibly beautiful. One minute you’d be hurtling past a valley filled with houses, then you’d be in a dark tunnel, surrounded by the smell of earth, then back into the sunshine and past orange groves, or almond trees.

Again, I think it was slightly costly, but I would very much recommend it. I guess it makes more sense if you don’t have a boat, and just want to go from Palma to visit the city of Soller.

(Photo from Marta)

(Photo from Marta)

When we arrived at Palma, the train was suddenly flooded with hundreds of German tourists. We sat tight and headed back to Soller.

Back in Soller there was time to have an underwhelming lunch under the watchful eye of the cathedral, and to explore some of those narrow streets in the search of fresh produce.

… and also time for more icecream…

As we headed back to the boat, the clouds descended, and the whole scene became a lot more dramatic.

Some of our fresh produce included loquats, which I hadn’t had for ages, and which the others hadn’t seen before.

And of course some of the delicious half-moon cookie-pastry things that had become a major part of our diet. I’m not sure if I described them before- they’re basically shortbread pastry, and filled then with apricot or fig jam or sweet ricotta or something else delicious.

(Photo from Marta)

That’s them in the top right of the photo. You can also see meat pies at the bottom, made with a similar shortcrust pastry. Andy and I scoffed a couple of these on the trip, mostly because there is nothing in Germany even slighly akin to a savoury pie.

You can really pick the fishing boats- based on the number of gulls following. 

We headed back out to sea…..

…and sailed into the next port as the sun was setting.